When I hear about the floodwaters rising in Fargo, where I once lived, I can’t help but think about the tremendous fear of loss people there must be feeling. How do you protect the truly important things, the photographs and letters, the keepsakes which mean something only to you? And what if you can’t? Houses, cars, TVs....those things are replaceable. But what if you lost all your family recipes?
It’s a terrible thought. My recipes -- no, not my cookbook collection, much as I love it, but my cache of handwritten family recipes -- are some of my most treasured possessions. How would I ever get them back if they were lost to a flood, or to a hurricane to end all hurricanes? Okay, there aren’t hurricanes in the upper Midwest. But on the Gulf Coast -- think about it. Yep. Many of the folks who suffered through the disaster and the indignities of Katrina lost all their recipes, too. How well can you really recover from something like that if you can’t even comfort yourself by making your mom’s recipe for chili?
I think it would be impossible. And so did many others, because they started writing to the New Orleans Times-Picayune, begging the food editors to help them replace the recipes they’d lost. The editors and writers did their best to help, by digging through their archives and encouraging folks who still had their family recipes to contribute them. Lost things were found. People felt better. And out of that effort, a really wonderful cookbook was born: Cooking Up a Storm, edited by Marcelle Bienvenu and Judy Walker.
There are so many good things in it that choosing one to try was difficult. In the end, it came down to the fact that I don’t believe it’s possible to have too much crab. It’s not even possible to have enough crab. So since there’s good crab in the stores right now, crab cakes it was. Or, as they evidently call them in New Orleans, crab chops. Isn’t that a great name?
Crab Chops, adapted from Cooking Up a Storm
(Serves 2 to 3, depending on your feelings about crab cakes. Okay, if we’re being honest, 2.)
1 Tbsp. butter
2 scallions, chopped
1 Tbsp. AP flour
1/2 c. milk
1/2 pound lump crabmeat
10 saltines
half a large egg, beaten (beat one egg, but only use half of it)
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. cayenne
1/8 tsp. Tabasco
cracker meal or bread crumbs
butter
oil
Start by
prepping the crabmeat. Which, if you are in a landlocked area of the
country and lump crabmeat is hard to find (and heinously expensive),
you’ll have to pick yourself.
Messy, but worth it. I buy about a pound of crab to get a half-pound of meat.
Smush up the saltines, while you’re making a mess.

Saute scallions in butter for a minute or two.
Then add flour and milk, and stir well to make a thick, white sauce. This will happen quickly, don’t fret. Remove pan from burner.
Now mix the crab, saltines, egg, and seasonings into the scallion mixture, and set it aside to cool. Putting it in the fridge will speed that up, of course. When it’s cool, make it into patties. Not too big and thick, or they won’t cook properly. Dredge them in cracker meal or breadcrumbs.
I used breadcrumbs, but I probably should have smushed more crackers instead. The M.E., our resident frying expert, tells me that cracker crumbs don’t burn as quickly.
In the spirit of testing the recipe, we fried these in a mixture of butter and oil. But 100% oil would have worked better. The crab chops got a little darker than we liked (in order to be done), but oooh. Tasty. Very tasty. I’d definitely make this again.
We tried the tartar sauce recipe from the book, too -- that’s the white glob in the photo. It’s quite different from my usual tartar sauce recipe, but very good.
Tartar Sauce, adapted from Cooking Up a Storm (this is the right amount for the quantity of crab cakes above)
Mix together:
1/4 c. mayonnaise
1/2 Tbsp. sweet pickle relish
a little bit of chopped scallion
1/2 tsp. fresh lemon juice
1 dashes Tabasco
Creole seasoning to taste
Don’t bother searching for Creole seasoning in the store. You can easily throw some together. I sort of followed Emeril’s recipe on this page. “Sort of” means that where he calls for a tablespoon, I used a teaspoon, throughout. Because I didn’t need a giant jar of the stuff. And I cut down the salt. Takes two minutes to make, with spices you probably already have, and is way cheaper than buying a pre-mixed jar of the stuff.
I know I’ll try many more recipes from Cooking Up a Storm. It’s full of marvelous things, both restaurant fare and home food, including things I haven’t seen in other books from that region. To be sure, this is a book that’s well worth adding to your cookbook collection. I love the spirit of it, the sharing of family treasures, and the great tidbits of Gulf Coast food history it contains.
But I still haven’t had enough crab.